Merlot of the Year

Beringer, 2002 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain – $75: Vibrant, intense aromas of mocha and wild blackberry accented by subtle notes of cedar, cherry cola and brown spice. Densely textured with medium-full tannins, this muscular Merlot is hedonistically rich and saturated with ripe blackberry-black cherry fruit and, at the same time, massive and powerful, yet focused and nearly graceful.

Top Ten Merlots of the Year

Clos Du Val, 2003 Napa Valley – $25: Pleasant cigar box-tinged aromas of black cherry and red currant with a hint of peppery spice. Round and supple with medium-full tannins and varietal flavors of dark cherry fruit enhanced by mild green olive herbaceousness and tobacco leaf.

Duckhorn, 2002 Howell Mountain – $70: Alluring aromas of cinnamon toast, blackberry, black pepper and a touch of pleasant forest-floor earthiness. Deeply extracted and concentrated with medium-full tannins, this large-scale Merlot is brimming with complex flavors of freshly crushed blackberry and black raspberry enhanced by notes of leather and cocoa with a touch of dried sage emerging in the extended finish.

Duckhorn, 2004 Napa Valley – $50: Really joyous Merlot exhibiting fragrant aromas of black cherry-cassis-raspberry fruit that have an almost kirsch-like richness, enhanced with notes of dried lavender, vanilla and lightly toasted oak. Silky smooth on the palate with medium tannins and copious flavors that replicate the nose. Closes long with clove spice emerging in the finish.

Duckhorn, 2003 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley – $80: Admirably reserved and subtly integrated aromas of blueberry, blackberry, graphite and violets. Silky-smooth flavors of cherry, citrus peel, tobacco and minerals are deep and sweet. Long, layered, fruit-dominant close. Tasters Choice Selection!

Hartwell, 2003 Stags Leap District, Napa Valley – $65: Intense, dusty aromas of black fruit, graphite and cedar. Well-defined flavors of blackberry, pencil, tobacco and redwood are quite dry. Long, polished close.

Paul Hobbs, 2003 Michael Black Vineyard, Napa Valley – $75: Forward, intense, appealing nose of black cherry-cranberry fruit, dried herbs and allspice. Rich and plump with medium-full tannins and copious, concentrated flavors of ripe, dark cherry fruit, finishing with a note of sweet oak.

Nickel & Nickel, 2003 Soscol Ranch, Napa Valley – $55: Rich nose of black cherry-loganberry fruit, Oreo cookie, dried sage and sweet oak. Smooth and plump with medium-full tannins, and rich, concentrated flavors of berry, black cherry and cassis. Dried sage reappears in the extended close. A well-structured Merlot with exemplary varietal character.

Shafer, 2004 Napa Valley – $45: Forward, appealing aromas of black cherry, wild strawberry, cranberry, creamy oak and a lovely note of violets (imparted by the 10% cabernet franc). Rich, deep flavors echo the nose. Well structured (thanks to 15% cabernet sauvignon) with firm, ripe tannins. A wee bit rough in the finish; should soften with bottle age, as evidenced by a burst of fruit in the close.

Sterling, 2002 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley – $50: Slow-to-open nose of dark cherry, tobacco leaf and cedar that expands with airing. Complex and harmonious on the palate with medium-full, supple tannins and a silky mouth-feel, the wine delivers deep flavors that replicate the nose and linger into an extended close.

Swanson, 2003 Oakville – $65: Clean, bright, fruit-forward aromas of black cherry and currant. Silky and seductive on the palate with copious, juicy, dark cherry flavors enhanced by an undertone of raspberry. Elegant and restrained with medium tannins and a long, fruity finish.

Other Outstanding Merlots

Beringer, 2003 Napa Valley – $20
Duckhorn, 2003 Estate Grown, Napa Valley – $85
Imagery, 2003 Sunny Slope Vineyard, Sonoma Valley – $35
Luna, 2002 Napa Valley – $32
MacRostie, 2002 Napa Valley-Carneros – $26
Pahlmeyer, 2003 Napa Valley – $90