By Steve Pitcher, thewinenews.com

Based on the performance of North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, California has been on a spectacular quality roll that got under way in 1994 and, with only a couple of comparatively so-so vintages in 1998 and 2000, has continued through vintage 2002. Given the law of averages, there was bound to be a decline somewhere. It showed up with vintage 2003. While not a bad or mediocre year, it was one in which generally cooler-than-usual weather conspired to deprive some producers of the crop-ripening elements needed to create the kind of wine discerning consumers have come to expect in terms of fruit maturity, texture and balance. Some producers, on the other hand, made daring decisions in the vineyard and confounded Mother Nature with wines reminiscent of the best of 2001 and 2002. That means 2003 bears the dubious distinction of being a “spotty” vintage, which makes consumers nervous – and rightfully so. The best advice we critics can provide, in addition to describing vintage 2003 wines as accurately as possible, is to remind consumers to taste prospective 2003 acquisitions before purchasing in quantity, regardless of reported descriptions and scores – and, in some cases, past performance by producers. Fortunately, this report requires that I focus only on wines I encountered from vintage 2003 that were, to my palate, outstanding to superb.

The good news is that there are some excellent late-release 2002s in the market (but not for long), and based on what has been released to date from 2004 (whites, of course, plus Pinots, Syrahs, Zins, some Merlots and a sprinkling of Cabs), and especially whites from 2005, California is back on track following the 2003 speed bump. In fact, vintners in virtually every winegrowing region on the planet are extolling 2005 as an unparalleled success. From what I’ve tasted, those assertions are absolutely accurate: We may actually, truthfully, have a genuine “vintage of the century” at hand, and a global one at that. These early prognostications auger very well for the 2005 California reds to follow.

This year’s report is structured in the format introduced last year: There is no “Best Value” category and no separate listing of limited-production wines without description. Instead, for each category, wines are evaluated purely in terms of quality, regardless of price or case production. For each varietal category, there is a separate first-place position for a Wine of the Year, which stands alone at the top because of the clearly evident extraordinary character that lifted it above the field. A “Top Ten” section follows with each wine listed and described alphabetically, and falling within the same high-quality range of “Outstanding” to “Superb” (covered by the 90-and-above point range of the magazine’s BuyLine scoring system). Wines listed without description following the Top Ten are in the same quality range, but are slightly eclipsed in quality (subjectively) by the described wines.

Wines rated 90+ by the BuyLine panel were again considered for inclusion on these pages, but only those also tasted separately by me became candidates for the final list. Wines that carry the initials “BL” indicate a BuyLine selection, and, where applicable, include the panel’s tasting notes and any special distinction (such as “Publisher’s Pick”). The balance are my personal selections, painstakingly culled from hundreds of wines tasted throughout the year. While most bottles were tasted blind and comparatively, some were tasted open. Publication deadlines precluded consideration of any wines not scheduled for tasting by October 31.

Some veteran readers may notice that Shafer wines are at the top of two categories for the second year in a row. Given my palate preference, it would be unusual – indeed, bizarre – if Shafer’s wines were not at the top of these categories. Shafer is, simply put, the best winery in California doing what it does with Cabernet and Syrah.

Here, then, beginning below and continuing on the pages that follow, are the best California wines I encountered in 2006.


Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet of the Year
Shafer, 2002 Hillside Select, Stags Leap District – $190: Released in September, the current Hillside Select duplicates the outstanding achievement of its 2001 predecessor; a perfect example of the best Cabernet that Napa can produce from an excellent vintage, with the added advantage of its area of origin – Stags Leap District estate hillside blocks with names like Sunspot, John’s Folly, Venado Illegal and Rattler. Vivid, intensely aromatic scents of perfectly ripe blackberry-cassis-black cherry enhanced by notes of dark chocolate, mild peppery herbaceousness and roasted coffee bean. Bold and powerful, but not overripe or out of balance, this 100 percent Cab boasts extracted, highly concentrated flavors of succulent black fruit highlighted by dark chocolate, dried herbs, vanilla and a certain hillside minerality that extends into the long finish. Exciting and appealing to drink now, but clearly deserving of cellaring over the next five to ten years, and longer. (2,500 cases)

Top Ten Cabernets of the Year

Beringer, 2002 Private Reserve, Napa Valley – $116: Earthy, tarry, smoky aromas of plum, gravel, coffee, mint and shoe leather. Luscious, chalky flavors of black cherry, blueberry, sweet oak, chocolate and cola. Brown sugar, tea and tobacco highlight the layered close. (14,200 cases) Tasters’ Choice Selection – BL

Caymus, 2003 Special Selection, Napa Valley – $136: Forward, expressive aromas of ripe cassis, blackberry, dried lavender, vanilla and dark-roasted coffee bean show through after initial high-char oak dissipates. Rich and supple on the palate with medium-full tannins and complex flavors of dark berries and cassis accented by hints of eucalyptus and creamy oak; long close. (9,800 cases)

Robert Craig, 2003 Howell Mountain, Napa Valley – $70: Rich, chocolaty nose of wild blackberry, cassis and vanilla cream with notes of red cherry, allspice and a hint of black pepper. Smooth, luscious and juicy on the palate with medium-full, fine-grain tannins and generous, complex flavors that replicate the nose with an intriguing addition of glove leather. (750 cases)

Dalla Valle, 2003 Napa Valley – $110: A voluptuous, yet superbly balanced wine, offering fragrant, appealing aromas of black raspberry, cassis, blueberry, plum, bittersweet chocolate and a delicate whiff of green herbs (probably reflective of the eight percent cab franc in the blend). Velvety smooth, luscious and complex on the palate; lifted flavors promised by the nose are accented by notes of vanilla and sage that persist into the long finish. An elegant, poised, noble Cabernet. (800 cases)

J. Davies, 2003 Estate Grown, Diamond Mountain District – $69: Silky, supple, curvaceous Cabernet, very approachable and the epitome of elegance. And this from a mountain-grown wine, which offers come-hither aromas of ripe blackberry-cassis fruit accented by anise, vanilla cream and clove, fine-grain, medium tannins and scrumptious flavors defined by the nose. Unfined and unfiltered, and blended with a little malbec (5%) and merlot (2%), this is a fairly priced, superbly crafted Cab that’s a joy to drink from first sip through the extended finish. (1,238 cases)

Etude, 2003 Napa Valley – $85: Opulently textured – as expected from winemaker Tony Soter – the 2003 Etude offers enticing aromas of pristine black cherry-cassis fruit accented by subtle dried lavender, anise and creamy oak. Absolutely irresistible even now, the blend of 97% cabernet and 3% cab franc sourced from superb sites in Rutherford, Oakville, St. Helena and Calistoga offers lush, rich dark berry-cassis flavors that are deep and concentrated, and buoyed by ripe, supple, fine-grain tannins. A superbly seamless Cab with great structure and balance whose flavors linger into the extended close. (2,500 cases)

Harlan, 2003 Estate, Napa Valley – $295: Blended with tiny quantities of estate petit verdot, cab franc and merlot, the 2003 Harlan exhibits forward, slightly herbaceous aromas of cassis, white pepper and creamy oak that are replicated on the layered palate, joined by black cherry and blackberry fruit. Supple, curvaceous and complex with a lovely, long, vanilla-tinged finish. This “cult” wine deserves its generous accolades. May 2007 release. (1,827 cases)

Ladera, 2003 Howell Mountain – $65: Slow-to-open nose of ripe cassis, blackberry, sour cherry and cedar expands with airing, yet the palate is at once enormously expressive displaying a cascade of luscious black and red fruit, anise seed and subtle dried lavender that go on and on, seemingly forever, into the close, where the wine finishes on a vanilla note. A mountain-grown Cab that’s both muscular and approachable with supple, ripe tannins and densely packed fruit. (1,000 cases)

Spottswoode, 2003 Estate, St. Helena – $110: Lovely aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, violets, toasty oak, white pepper and a hint of fresh, loamy earth. Smooth, luscious and elegant on the palate with well-integrated tannins and copious flavors of spicy cassis, mocha and vanilla cream. The wine finishes long and lovely with dried herb-tinged nuances. A great expression of finesse with every element in place and balanced perfectly. (3,700 cases)

Von Strasser, 2003 Post Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District – $70: Forward, enticing aromas of blackberry-black cherry fruit with a note of crиme de cassis and a hint of dried lavender. Luscious and concentrated on the palate with loads of succulent blackberry-cassis fruit tinged with dried herbs and subtle mocha. Accessible now, but the ripe, medium-full tannins argue for a few years of cellaring. Blended with 10% merlot and 5% petit verdot. (248 cases)