Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir of the Year

Merry Edwards, 2003 Klopp Ranch, Russian River Valley – $48: Wonderfully fragrant aromas expand with airing to exhibit vivid, ripe, just-crushed wild strawberry and blackberry, enlivened by notes of raspberry and hazelnut. Ultrasmooth and velvety with fine-grain tannins, lively acidity and generous flavors that replicate the nose, this well-structured Pinot exhibits great fruit expression and complexity, finishing long and lovely. Tasted several times, the wine just gets better and better.

Top Ten Pinots of the Year 2006

Arista, 2004 Longbow, Russian River Valley – $38: Forward, somewhat smoky aromas of black cherry and red currant enhanced by sweet oak. Smooth, round and luscious with medium tannins, this complex Pinot offers abundant, deep, smoke-laced flavors of raspberry, plum and cola finishing with a bacony note (indicative of highly toasted barrels).

Copain, 2004 En Bas, Kiser Vineyard, Anderson Valley – $50: From one of the chilliest microclimates in Anderson Valley’s Deep End, this impressive Pinot offers come-hither aromas of clove-cinnamon spice accenting deeply scented dark cherry-black raspberry fruit. Bright and lively on the palate with smooth, supple tannins and complex, lifted flavors that replicate the nose. A good backbone of acid provides structure to the rich texture. A joy to drink.

Davis Bynum, 2004 Lindley’s Knoll, Russian River Valley – $55: Assertive, pleasing aromas of smoked meat and red fruit accented by a touch of blackberry liqueur and shy toast. Plush and generous in the mouth with medium-full tannins and balancing acidity, this wickedly rich Pinot offers a deep core of black and red fruit that resonates persistently on the palate, finishing with a wisp of smokiness.

DeLoach, 2004 Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Coast – $40: Under new ownership, the winery’s first release from this vineyard in southwestern Sonoma Valley (almost into Carneros) is very impressive, offering forward, fragrant aromas of ripe strawberry and raspberry, plus a hint of black tea, all in a super-plush mouth-feel framed by fine-grain tannins. Vibrant, intense flavors echo the nose and persist into the extended finish. A beautifully crafted wine from Greg La Follette at a very fair price.

Dutton-Goldfield, 2004 Dutton Ranch-Sanchietti Vineyard, Russian River Valley – $55: Slow-to-open nose of sandalwood and vanilla expands to exhibit toasty brioche and ripe raspberry fruit enhanced by a blueberry note. Extremely elegant and poised with a velvety texture and medium tannins, the wine possesses a deep core of freshly crushed red fruit tinged with blackberry; wonderfully complex and generous, finishing long and lovely.

Holdridge, 2004 Wren Hop Vineyard, Russian River Valley – $36: Captivating nose of red meat, just crushed ripe strawberry, violets and mocha translates fully to the palate of this super-plush Pinot; flavors fairly burst from the glass. A showstopper of a wine that commands attention, this bargain-priced Pinot is supremely elegant, balanced and expressive.

MacPhail, 2004 Toulouse Vineyard, Anderson Valley – $37: A real charmer from one of the valley’s premier vineyards. Hints of smoke, rose petal and allspice enhance ripe blackberry-black cherry fruit in the nose. On the palate, the wine is almost meaty, yet also velvety, brimming with luscious black fruit laced with white pepper and finishing long and slightly smoky. Intriguing, different and distinctive, this serious, profound Pinot is meant to age at least five years for optimum enjoyment.

Morgan, 2004 Garys’ Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands – $45: From a “grand cru” vineyard in the prime mid-point of the AVA densely planted with the so-called “Pisoni clone” (allegedly from purloined La T?che cuttings smuggled into California in the early 1980s), this luxuriant Pinot offers forward, slightly toasty aromas of black raspberry, vanilla bean, espresso and minerality. Full bodied, richly textured and brimming with vibrant, ripe, deep, complex raspberry, cassis and black cherry flavors, the wine displays excellent structure and firm, supple tannins, finishing with a note of spice.

Sea Smoke, 2004 Southing, Santa Rita Hills – $50: Alluring scents of blueberry and black cherry, almost to cobbler ripeness, mingle with violets and brown spice. Smooth, rich and supple with firm, ripe tannins, the wine offers a complex array of red cherry-red currant fruit, joined by the black fruit announced by the nose, finishing with a hint of spice-dusted blueberry.

Toulouse, 2003 Estate Reserve, Anderson Valley – $42: Astoundingly fragrant nose of vanilla custard, cr?me br?l?e, sour cherry and lightly toasted oak. Complex and expansive on the palate with deep, persistent flavors that echo the nose amid a texture that is almost as viscous as liqueur; ultrasmooth with supple tannins, finishing long with a sour cherry flourish.

Other Outstanding Pinots

Alma Rosa, 2004 Encantada Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills – $47
Etude, 2003 Heirloom, Carneros – $80
Goldeneye, 2003 Anderson Valley – $52
Goldeneye, 2004 Migration, Anderson Valley – $30
Goldeneye, 2004 Narrows Vineyard, Anderson Valley – $70
Gypsy Canyon, 2004 Santa Rita Hills – $75
Hanzell, 2003 Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley – $87
Hartford Court, 2004 Seascape Vineyard, Sonoma Coast – $55